MAGPIE
BE CONSISE
Coat H&M
Coat H&M
Shoes NEW BALANCE
Sweater ZARA
Coat MANGO
Shoes NEW BALANCE
Trousers H&M
Sweater ZARA
Sweater ZARA
Coat H&M
LADIES WHO LUNCH
Model IRINA DJURANOVIC
A/W 15 La Brasserie Gabrielle de Chanel
Models JOSEPHINE LE TUTOUR & SASHA PIVOVAROVA
A/W 15 La Brasserie Gabrielle de Chanel
Model MELINA GESTO
A/W 15 La Brasserie Gabrielle de Chanel
Model ZLATA MANGAFIC
A/W 15 La Brasserie Gabrielle de Chanel
Models HOLLIE-MAY SAKER & JULIA NOBIS
A/W 15 La Brasserie Gabrielle de Chanel
Model ASHLEIGH GOOD
A/W 15 La Brasserie Gabrielle de Chanel
Model JULIA BERGSHOEFF
A/W 15 La Brasserie Gabrielle de Chanel
Photographer Mia Aadland Stølen
A Chanel Act
A/W 15 La Brasserie Gabrielle de Chanel
A/W 15 La Brasserie Gabrielle de Chanel
A/W 15 La Brasserie Gabrielle de Chanel
A/W 15 La Brasserie Gabrielle de Chanel
A/W 15 La Brasserie Gabrielle de Chanel
A/W 15 La Brasserie Gabrielle de Chanel
A/W 15 La Brasserie Gabrielle de Chanel
A/W 15 La Brasserie Gabrielle de Chanel
A/W 15 La Brasserie Gabrielle de Chanel
A/W 15 La Brasserie Gabrielle de Chanel
A/W 15 La Brasserie Gabrielle de Chanel
A/W 15 La Brasserie Gabrielle de Chanel
Last month I read an article in The Wall Street Journal about the Parisian waiters, “In Defence of the Notoriously Arrogant French Waiter”. Without paraphrasing the article, it makes an interesting point on how serving tables in the Parisian brasserie is akin to theatre. The highly respected French waiters attend schools that include acting classes teaching the appropriate posture and the dance moves of waiting tables, i.e. how to balance stacks of plates and coffee cups with one hand, while opening a bottle with the other.
A card with a sketch of an authentic French waiter invited us “à la Brasserie Gabrielle”, and invited we were; a breakfast of choice is waiting for us upon arrival. Once again, Chanel has impressively transformed the enormous space of the Grand Palais into a world of their own. A grand bar dominates the centre stage, flanked by a smaller variation on each side. Several table-sections with red leatherette banquettes are connecting them. Together with tall flower decorations, mirrors, and faded tiles on the floor; this is a French brasserie just as we know it. As we arrive, the play is already in motion: guests are being served petit-déjeuner, whilst proud waiters are balancing champagne glasses and jus d’orange, navigating between white tablecloths.
A coffee and croissant later, we are being seated. The waiters, however, carry on with their usual routine. The revolving door starts spinning, and reveals one elegant Parisienne after another. A year ago, under the same dome, the models pretended to be grocery shopping, filling up their carts until all looks had been displayed; likewise in today’s role play, our Parisiennes for the day are not leaving the scene after their stroll around the restaurant. They take a seat and order a café, hang their coats up and read the newspaper, or join their chic girlfriends to take selfies. The clever trick this season, however, is that the models don’t leave when the music stops.
Instead of leaving as they would in a traditional fashion show, guests are actually invited to stay and enjoy the moment, while having a closer look at the collection. The show opened with sporty garments, bombers and parkas with rhinestones in tweed and plaid. Through inventive knits shaping backpacks, the accessories also demonstrate the sporty element. Eventually the
Models are posing in every angle of the set, while Karl Lagerfeld himself is standing behind the bar, serving answers to the many journalists on the other side of the counter.
So what message did Chanel convey last Tuesday morning in the Brasserie Gabrielle? There are two significant notions, and both lead back to the roots of the brand. Firstly, we are witnessing Chanel opening up and meeting its audience through an interactive fashion show. Contrary to the traditional runway show, where only the front row has the luxury of time and an ideal view to experience the looks up-close. Is it a sign that Chanel is looking at its original idea of brand positioning? This season’s approach effectively identifies with Coco Chanel’s vision of the brand. The marketing position of most current luxury brands contradicts the idea Gabrielle Chanel had for her brand initially; when her staff told her that they saw her designs in the windows of other shops and tailors, Coco was thrilled, as for her at one point every woman of every age would walk the streets of Paris in a Chanel suit, in all price ranges. She had never been more flattered.
Secondly, there is an evident parallel between the waiters and the models in this spectacle. In the same way French waiters have been taught to embody a character, models are equally challenged to step into a role and communicate the spirit of a multitude of collections through movement and body-language. For both, as in every traditional theatre, the dress is crucial. Chanel is pushing the delightful idea that fashion is a role-play, that clothes can give flesh to everyone’s character. Karl Lagerfeld called it the French collection. Who would say no to being Parisian for a day?
Text and photos / Mia Aadland Stølen
MAN UP!
T-shirt WEEKDAY
Shorts H&M
Leggings H&M
Shoes NIKE
Shorts H&M
Leggings H&M
Shoes NIKE
Sweatshirt WEEKDAY
Shorts WEEKDAY
Shoes NIKE
Shorts WEEKDAY
T-shirt WEEKDAY
Shorts WEEKDAY
Jacket WEEKDAY
Shorts H&M
Bum bag Stylist's own
Sweatshirt WEEKDAY
Shorts H&M
Leggings H&M
Shoes NIKE
A look at Martine Jarlgaard London
Lookbook Martine Jarlgaard London A/W 15
Lookbook Martine Jarlgaard London A/W 15
Lookbook Martine Jarlgaard London A/W 15
Lookbook Martine Jarlgaard London A/W 15
Lookbook Martine Jarlgaard London A/W 15
Lookbook Martine Jarlgaard London A/W 15
Lookbook Martine Jarlgaard London A/W 15
Lookbook Martine Jarlgaard London A/W 15
Lookbook Martine Jarlgaard London A/W 15
Lookbook Martine Jarlgaard London A/W 15
Lookbook Martine Jarlgaard London A/W 15
Martine Jarlgaard studied at The Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Copenhagen and was swiftly picked up by Vivienne Westwood and put in charge of the Vivienne Westwood Red Label. Before founding her own brand, Martine also worked with Diesel and All Saints. The latest collection offered sleek minimalism, sharp angles and precise cutting. Martine introduced luxurious fabrics and innovative techno qualities. ” When it comes to fabrics, I like there to be playfulness and courage, some of these materials are very technical like the reflective and then you have som more traditional fabrics mixed with it. It’s all very much about re-seeing things and referencing the idea of l’objet trouvé with silhouettes originating from observing and re-interpreting the familiar as an encouragement to take a fresh look at things we1ve gone blind to”, said Martine Jarlgaard.
The clothes are feminine in the most contemporary way possible, by being timeless in a way of sculpting and hugging the feminine body, mixed with modern fabrics — playing with light reflective surfaces and thick wools. ” It is made for the modern woman and that is what we are trying to do, create pieces that will last through seasons and I love this idea of things actually
All garments offered a punch-line, a part of the garment where the attention was drawn, whether it was the waist, shoulders or décolletage. The clothes were elegant and a true breath of crisp Scandinavian air in the chaotic scene of London Fashion Week.
Martine showed her Scandinavian roots through familiar curiosity in fabrics and minimalism. The clothes yet, showed true signs from her international experience, being sexual in a very Nordic way, playing with volume and shapes rather than skin. ”Some of the silhouettes in the collection, are a bit more relaxed around the body and they’re quite versatile. So it’s this idea of playing with details and references, but making it super contemporary”, said Martine Jarlgaard.
You can see more of Martine Jarlgaard here.
Interview / Madeleine Holth
Photos / Erin Eve
EASY FLOW
Blazer H&M
Shorts H&M
Rings PERNILLE CORYDON
Skirt EPILOGUE
Vest EPILOGUE
Earrings H&M
Rings PERNILLE CORYDON
Jacket H&M
Top MONKI
Rings A BARENESS
Earrings PERNILLE CORYDON
Top STELLA MCCARTNEY /Høyer Luxury
Dress FILIPPA K
Earrings KINRADEN
Rings PERNILLE CORYDON
Top H&M
Skirt DESIGNERS REMIX
Sneakers ADIDAS BY STELLA MCCARTNEY
Necklace WEEKDAY
Top FWSS
Skirt BY MALENE BIRGER
Bracelet THOMAS SABO
Sneakers ADIDAS BY STELLA MCCARTNEY
Skirt STELLA MCCARTNEY /Høyer Luxury
Dress BY MALENE BIRGER
Dress LANVIN /Høyer Luxury
Rings PERNILLE CORYDON
Sneakers ADIDAS BY STELLA MCCARTNEY
Skirt BY MALENE BIRGER
Top FWSS
Bracelet THOMAS SABO
Top H&M
Necklace H&M
Earrings A BARENESS
Rings PERNILLE CORYDON
Skirt GIVENCHY /Høyer Luxury
Dress FILIPPA K
Necklace KINRADEN
Rings PERNILLE CORYDON
TOUCH
Top JONATHAN SAUNDERS
Top JONATHAN SAUNDERS
Trousers REJINA PYO
Shoes POLLINI
Jeans ACNE
Jacket ACNE
Top STYLIST'S OWN
Coat ACNE
Top TOPSHOP
Trousers CHARLIE MAY
Dress CHARLIE MAY
Coat ACNE
Top JONATHAN SAUNDERS
Coat ACNE
Knit TOPSHOP
Trousers CHARLIE MAY
Top ACNE
Jacket ACNE
Top TOGA PULLA
Trousers HELEN LAWRENCE
Top CHARLIE MAY
Trousers MAX MARA
IONE
Dress CARIN WESTER
Trousers TOPSHOP
Dress MONKI
Jacket STYLIST'S OWN
Tank top AMERICAN APPAREL
T-shirt FILA x JUNKYARD
Trousers FILA x JUNKYARD
Shoes TOPSHOP
Dress TOPSHOP
Top WEEKDAY
Trousers FRAME DENIM
Shoes TOPSHOP
Scarf H&M
T-shirt FILIPPA K
Vest CHEAP MONDAY
RASCALS
Cap GRAA
Knit H&M
Trouser FILIPPA K
Jacket ZADIG&VOLTAIRE
Shorts COS
Knit ZADIG&VOLTAIRE
Jacket NIKE /YME
Tank top ADIDAS byNigo
Watch KOMONO
Blazer RALPH LAUREN
Tank top ADIDAS byNigo
Blazer H&M
Trousers COS
Boxing gloves Abilica
Shorts OUR LEGACY
Grey suit FILIPPA K
Shirt ADIDAS byNigo
Trousers COMME DES GARCONS
Foot protection FIGHTER GENUINE
Total look ETUDES STUDIO /YME
Boxing gloves FIGHTER GENUINE
Jacket H&M
Top ADIDAS by Nigo
Trousers COS
Sneakers ADIDAS
Top ADIDAS
Jeans LEVI'S
Blazer RALPH LAUREN
Watch KOMONO /YME
Sneakers ADIDAS by RICKOWENS /YME
Cap GRAA
Jacket COS
Bucket hat WOODWOOD /YME
Jacket GRAA
Bomber jacket H&M
T-shirt STYLIST'S OWN
Ring TOM WOOD
Leather jacket ZADIG&VOLTAIRE
T-shirt MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA /YME
Shorts MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA /YME
Shirt PETIT BATEAU
Jacket NIKE /YME
Sandals AMI /YME
Jacket NIKE /YME
Slip-ons FILIPPA K
Trousers RALPH LAUREN
T-shirt MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA /YME
Boxing gloves Abilica
Blazer RALPH LAUREN
Shorts OUR LEGACY
Cap GRAA
Jacket COS
Trousers COS
Watch KOMONO /YME
Cap GRAA
Bomber jacket H&M
T-shirt MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA /YME
Shorts MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA /YME
Cap ADIDAS
Bomber jacket H&M
Shorts OUR LEGACY
Bucket hat WOODWOOD /YME
Baseball shirt ADIDAS byNigo
CLEAN CUTS
Jacket Valerie
Trousers Mexx
Shoes Tiger of Sweden
Necklace Calvin Klein
Blouse Intro // Muse
Trousers Ida Klamborn
Ring Pernille Corydon
Loafers Whyred
Top Hope
Skirt STAND Black Nude
Trenchcoat Intro // Muse
Skirt Altewaisaome
Loafers Whyred
Earrings Edblad
Rings Edblad
Dress DAY Birger et Mikkelsen
Blouse 2nd Day
Culottes Rodebjer
Necklace Pernille Corydon
Jumpsuit Stylein
Dress Whyred
Rings Pernille Corydon
Necklace Calvin Klein
Piké shirt Wood Wood
Skirt Carin Wester
Bracelet Pilgrim
Scarf Missoni
Dress By Malene Birger
Shoes Tiger of Sweden
Socks Wolford
Blouse Filippa K
Trousers Carin Wester
Loafers Whyred
Scarf Hope
CORNERED
Top By Malene Birger
Suit jacket Acne
Shirt Hope
Jeans & Other Stories
Socks Weekday
Heels Zara
Silk ribbon Vintage
Jacket Lindex
Top Never Denim
Jeans H&M
Heels Zara
Blouse Lindex
Scarf & Other Stories
Vest H&M
Top Totême
Skirt Rodebjer
Slippers Zara
Blazer Acne
Shirt Tiger of Sweden
Skirt Current/Elliot
Silk ribbon Olsson Tyger
Cardigan & Other Stories
Blouse House of Dagmar
Skirt Lindex
Heels Zara
Dress H&M
Vest Lindex
Turtleneck Lindex
GRAA x SVA
Graa Clothing S/S 15
Graa Clothing S/S 15
Graa Clothing S/S 15
Graa Clothing S/S 15
Graa Clothing S/S 15
Graa Clothing S/S 15
Graa Clothing S/S 15
Graa Clothing S/S 15
Graa Clothing S/S 15
This collaboration spun out of Graa Clothing handing their S/S 15 collection over to SVA Magazine with full artistic freedom. The instinct that comes with the creative process lead us to this installation, where we took the ball and ran with it.
Read more about Graa Clothing here.
GET THE MOON UP
IN BETWEEN LAYERS
Striped sleeveless shirt Vintage
White Shirt Maison Martin Margiela
Top Cheap Monday
Skirt Cheap Monday
Gloves Stylist Studio
Top BACK
Shirt Totême
Vest Cheap Monday
Dress Carin Wester
Trousers Calvin Klein Jeans
Shirt FWSS
Jacket Calvin Klein Jeans
Long shirt dress Rodebjer
Jeans dress Cheap Monday
Striped shirt ACNE
Trousers ACNE
Shoes Stylist studio
Striped shirt ACNE
Trousers ACNE
Top Vintage
Scarf Stylist studio
Blue shirt Replay
Knot top Cheap Monday
Striped shirt BACK
Striped shorts Rodebjer
Jeans ACNE
Striped dress H&M
Striped shirt ACNE
Short sleeved shirt FWSS
Jeans dress Silent Damir Doma
Jeans shirt Levi's
Striped shirt H&M
Blue striped shirt FWSS
Trousers Bik Bok
Shoes Stylist Studio
Jeans top H&M
Shorts Calvin Klein
Striped shirt Rodebjer
White shirt Carin Wester
Striped shirt on the waist Calvin Klein
White shirt on the waist Maison Martin Margiela
Håkon
– Joakim
GENESIS
Crop tops Alexander Wang
Chiffon top Topshop
Blouse Louis Vuitton
Headband Vintage
Oversized knit Carven
Chiffon shirt American Apparel
Chiffon shirt American Apparel
Knit Carven
Chanel États Poétiques
All makeup by Chanel
OSLRW SS16
Oslo Runway kicked as a one day event for the fashion industry of Norway where selected designers, both established and newcomers we’re united to show their muscles and strengths on the runway with their latest SS16 creations.
Established brands like Johnny Love, Epilogue by Eva Emanuelsen and By TiMo have shown great success financially and commercially, and are today sought after all across Norway, while the audience also got to experience a more radical and norm-breaking designs from Anne Karine Thorbjørnsen and Christina Ledang.
The fine selection of designers showcasing at Oslo Runway all have a strong part in the sartorial landscape of Norwegian fashion. The invited guests were strategically invited for their relevant role in the Norwegian fashion industry and consisted of photographers, buyers, domestic and international press.
Several of the designers opted for CIFF this year for sales, as well as the already existing domestic initiative. Norway are taking small steps, but steps in the right direction towards a strong fundament in the Scandinavian landscape of fashion and design by displaying a strong platform where craftsmanship, creative freedom and true Scandinavian design esthetics come together, forming what is Oslo Runway.
By TiMo
Setting the scene with a ballet performance in luxurious silk, designer Tine Mollatt opened Oslo Runway with her bohéme-esque collection consisting of light floral fabrics, lace dresses, layers of a-lined skirts and blouses and a delicate SS16 palette. The feminine yet comfortable garments inspired to a spring of vintage soft pastels and earthly hues.
Johnny Love
As the only menswear designer participating this season, designer John Vinnem introduced an androgynous yet classical looking collection. This SS16, Johnny Love showcased timeless classical tailoring and minimalistic elegance balanced with laid-back formal styling and smooth cuts.
Anne Karine Thorbjørnsen
Showing showpiece after showpiece as the models walked the runway several times as in an art installation, Anne Karine Thorbjørnsen proved herself to be the least commercial designer of the day, although a fresh breath of air. Torn fabrics were draped over tailored asymetric dresses, creating layered, sporty looks held together by tape. Combined, Thorbjørnsen’s SS16 collection showed a playful approach to deconstructed and sublime experimental fashion.
Epilogue by Eva Emanuelsen
Continuing the defined elegance Epilogue is known for, Emanuelsen’s SS16 collection consisted of chic voluminous looks of matchy bright colours, earthly greens as well as all white draperies. Her key pieces were oversized kimonos, shirt dresses, bold prints and transparent check patterns, completing Oslo Runway with a feminine edge.
You can read more about Oslo Runway here.
Text / Madeleine Holth & Martine Stenberg
Photos / Indigitalimages @ Oslo Runway
Moonshine Got Me
Turtleneck Wood Wood
Earrings Stylist's own
Top Wood Wood
Whole look Filippa K
Top Acne Studios
Jewellery Trine Tuxen
Top Stylist's own
Trousers Acne Studios
Shoes Acne Studios
Top Zimmerli
Earrings Stylist's own
Top Dolce & Gabbana /Times Up Vintage
Dress Vintage
Top Wood Wood
Trousers Weekday
Top Acne Studios
Dress Vintage
Earrings Stylist's own
Top Acne Studios
Tops in the back Wood Wood
Top in front Stylist's own
Jewellery Trine Tuxen
–Charlotte
